Long before some transphobe brought a version of this drink to mainstream consciousness, it was a special treat in Tudor England. This recipe dates back to 1588, taken from The Good Huswifes Handmaide for the Kitchin.

Yes, there is beer (ale) in this, but the alcohol cooks out. The resulting flavor is sweet and buttery with warm spices on the palate. I used a Sam Adams Winter Ale, which worked out pretty well. You can probably use any ale or beer as long as it doesn’t have too many hops or sour flavor, as those flavor profiles would clash with the other flavors in this drink. A pilsner or wheat beer might be a good alternative if the only ales you can find are IPAs, as those have been extremely hoppy in recent years.

This can be kept in a crock pot if you want to serve it as a party, but I strongly recommend starting it in a saucepan as that will make it much easier to bring to a boil. Once you’re done with that step, it can be moved to a crock pot.

1,500ml (3 bottles) of good-quality ale
¼ tsp. ground ginger
½ tsp. ground cloves
½ tsp. ground nutmeg
200g (~1 c. unpacked) demerara or other natural brown sugar
5 egg yolks
100g (1/2 c. / 1 stick) unsalted butter, chopped into small lumps

Pour the ale gently into a large saucepan and whisk in the ginger, cloves, and nutmeg. Bring slowly to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for a few minutes until the ale clears. 

While the ale is simmering, whisk the egg yolks and then mix in the sugar in a bowl until the mixture is light and creamy.

Remove the spiced ale from the hob, add the egg yolk and sugar mixture, and stir until all ingredients are well blended.

Return to a low heat until the liquid starts to thicken, taking care not to overheat. (If you want to keep it in a crock pot for a party, this is the point when you can move it over and set it to high heat.)

Simmer for five minutes, add the chopped butter, and heat until it has melted. Hand-whisk the liquid until it becomes frothy.

Continue to heat for 10 minutes, then allow to cool to a drinkable temperature. (If using a crock pot, reduce the heat to warm or low.)

Give the mixture another whisk, serve into a jug or small glasses (or tankards!) and drink while still warm.